Since the Isle of Jura is part of
the Hebrides, an archepelagoe of some 500 islands that borders the west
and northwest of Scotland, the story of the island's geography must
begin with a comment or two about is location and relationship with its
neighbours...
The Hebrides are grouped into the Outer Hebrides or the Western Isles (na h-Eileanan An-Iar) and the Inner Hebrides (na h-Eileanan A-staigh). The following islands make up
the Outer Hebrides: Lewis (Leòdhas), Harris (Na Hearadh), North Uist (Uibhist a Tuath), Benbecula (Beinn na Bhadhla), South Uist (Uibhist a Deas), and Barra (Barraigh). The following islands make up
the Inner Hebrides: Skye (an t-Eilean Sgitheanach), Rhum (Rùm), Eigg (Eige), Muck (Eilean nam Muc), Canna (Canaigh), Mull (Muile), Iona (I), Coll (Colla), Tiree (Tiriodh), Islay (Ile), Jura (Diùra) and Colonsay (Colbhasa).

The Hebrides
The Inner Hebrides are divided
between the Highland and Argyll and Bute council areas. The climate is
mild, due to the North Atlantic Drift current (the end of the Gulf
Stream essentially) the scenery is beautiful, and there are numerous
prehistoric and ancient historical remains and geological structures.
Fishing, farming, crofting (a small holding form of agriculture
traditional to the Highlands and Islands), sheep grazing, manufacturing
of tweeds and other woolens, quarrying (slate), and catering to
tourists are the chief means of livelihood these days.
The original Celtic inhabitants,
converted to Christianity by St. Columba (6th cent.), were conquered by
the Norwegians (starting in the 8th cent.). They held the Southern
Islands, as they called them, until 1266 with the defeat at the battle
of Largs, near present day Glasgow. After that time the islands were
claimed by the Scottish crown but were in fact ruled by the
half-Hebridean, half Norse island clans, the most famous descending
from Somerled. The descendants of Somerled, whom became known as
the Macdonalds (one of Somerled's descendants was Domhnall, Gaelic for
Donald) and became virtual rulers of the entire Hebrides as well as the
West and Northwest of Scotland by 1346. They are know to history
as "The Lords of the Isles". After their downfall in 1493, the
title was abrogated to the Scottish Crown, whereupon when the Union
between Scotland and England took place in the early 1700s, the title
passed to the British Crown. Thus, Prince Charles is known today
as "The Lord of the Isles". Regressing slightly, between the 18th
and 19 centuries, the Ossianic tales of Macpherson, the
literature of Sir Walter Scott
and of course, the Royal Cruise of Quenn Victoria did much to make the
islands famous. Still, these remarkable individuals saw the island
culture as a mere shadow of its former self, as heavy emigration from
the overpopulated islands occurred in the at ever increasing rates from
the 17th cent. onward,, especially to North America.
So what about Jura...
The Isle of Jura is
approximately 50 kilometres in length and 11 kilometres at its widest
point; conversely, its narrowest breadth lies alongside it widest as
Loch Tarbert, a sea loch, nearly bisects the island such that "west"
Jura lies less than 1 kilometre from "east" Jura. The Scottish
mainland the island is only 8.25 kilometres away to the east, while to
the west, the Islay is only some 900 metres away, across the rapidly
flowing Sound of Islay. The Isles of Colonsay-Oransay are 12.75
kilometres to the northwest, while the Holy Isle (not shown on the map
below), Iona, is only 40 kilometres to the north-northwest.
Interestingly, Ireland lies not to much further in distance to the
south-southwest, but more about that later on...
The Isle of Jura and her
neighbours...
Having dispensed with the "where"
Jura is, what's it made of? A simple geological discourse goes like
this: the island is largely composed of quartzite, which forms the
rumbling ridges of the west and the island's most famous natural
features, the Paps of Jura. The highest point is 785 metres at Beinn an Oir, not quite a
Munro, but then you'll coming directly from sea level, so we like to
think that its a bit more difficult (heh, heh). We'll not tease
you here, so here's a wee view...
The
Paps of Jura from the west in the Sound of Islay
(Psst, we know if you copy the image, so as yer' Granny
would say..."Behave!")
Marching
on with our geological discussion, the west coast quartzite is is cut
by Tertiary dykes and features numerous caves caused by past sea level
rises that have eroded the coastline. The recent BBC
programme "Natural History", hosted by that imminent geologist, er,
gardner, Alan Tischmarsh, featured this aspect of Jura, along with the
spectacular raised beaches. Abandoned shoreline caused by
dramatic sea level drops, some of these beach lines can be seen some 30
metres above the present sea level-as a matter of fact, the island is
still rebounding from its last "Ice Age". Of course the question
now is whether or not the rebound is ahead of sea level rises caused by
climate change...
At any rate, there is no
permanent human presence on the west coast of the island, for that
matter the population of the island is a mere 180 people (at most and
depending on how "permanent" one classifies its residents!), making it
quite likely the leat populated area in Europe...and Europe ends at the
Ural Mountains of Russia! Why so small a population? Again, back
to geology, only the east coast of the island has a smattering of
softer phyllites, schists, and underlying high quality Dalradian
limestone-unlike its sister island of Islay, known as the "blue-green
isle" for its lush soils...what a difference a few hundred metres makes!
Stepping off the geology and
into the water, or oceanography in this case, the island is remarkable
for its tidal currents that sweep around it, through the Sound of Islay
and on the east, the Sound of Jura. These currents develop as the
result of high water differing by as much as five hours from one side
of the island to the other. On the west coast the maximum tidal
range is about 3 metres, while on the east coast it is as little as 1.5
metres-virtually half.
The most famous oceangraphic
feature connected with Jura is the Corryvreckan, located off the
northernmost point of the island between the towering cliffs of the
mountain-island of Scarba. At this point the two islands are only
1 kilometre apart and the tremendous hydro-dynamic forces created by
tidal changes create an enormous series of eddies, waves and virtual
whirlpools. Best avoided by small boats and ships, large modern
ships easily motor through the cauldron due to their size, both in hull
and engine capacity. Okay, you're interested, so here's an image,
but of the "Corry" at rest-to see it in action you'll have to come
visit the island...
The
Corryvreckan at rest beneath the cliffs of the nearby island of
Scarba...underpowered vessels beware!
(We know you want to copy this for your Scarba web site,
go ahead make our Digimarc day...)
What's the political geography of
the island? It has a local community council (currently headed by..a
MacDonald...some things just don't change...wink) and administered by
Argyll and Bute (no comment as we're apolitical here, though we'd like
to be like Switzerland, independent with a CHEAP ferry of our very
own...hint, hint...). So like other no go areas of polite conversation,
we'll just leave it at that.
Speaking of governments, they
need people to govern and the first people to have arrived in/on Jura
would have been in the Mesolithic Period (check out John Mercer's
archaeological papers and books on the subject, definitive, dense and
debatable...but very, very good). The cultural geography of the island
from that time until quite literally the mid-20th century would have
been as a natural stepping stone between the surrounding islands, with
cattle, ship, fish and all other types of commerce passing through the
island to the Scottish mainland, or Ireland for that matter. Only
with the demise of a direct mainland ferry link in the 1970s has Jura
ceased to be connected directly to the Scottish mainland-that's
progress...ahem.
Right, enough for now, more to
come, so stay tuned!